Come l'usato è diventato il primo punto di riferimento della moda

How second-hand goods have become the first point of reference for fashion

The rise of vintage

The best pre-loved fashion is no longer only discovered IRL. Today's savvy fans find everything from vintage Alaïa to Zara in all corners of the digital shopping space.

The best advertising campaigns make you want to be the woman on the billboard. In 2013, I wanted to be Daria Werbowy in a pink roll-top bathroom, naked except for a rhinestone-encrusted necklace and bracelets, in Céline's spring campaign.

I've been dreaming about that glittering choker, in particular, for months, even though it was wildly unaffordable – up to £2,000 – on my fashion journalist's salary. Years later, when its creator Phoebe Philo announced she would leave the brand in 2017, I thought about the necklace again. Curious to see if I could track one down, I hit Google. Fifteen minutes later, I had unearthed a German seller on the French resale site Vestiaire Collective, who was willing to part with theirs for £481.37, complete with dustbag and original box. Reader, I bought it. And then I bragged about it. “It's spring/summer 2013,” I told admirers who asked about the necklace's origin at a party. Vogue .

It was a time when last season's signature items were put at the back of the closet or donated to willing recipients after their moment in the spotlight. Now, pre-loved, pre-worn, pre-owned, saved and resale clothes and accessories couldn't be more desirable. “Vintage” is the term that covers all the bases, even if it makes nitpickers cringe: technically, it should only be applied to clothes made between the last 20 and 99 years. In any case, the second-hand market today has clearly evolved from the two categories that “vintage” denoted: an acid-free, fabric-wrapped couture dress purchased at an auction house, on the one hand, or a mothballed-dress scented petticoat unearthed at a flea market stall on the other.

Celine hoop earrings

Vestiaire Collective

Baroque Celine bracelet

Vestiaire Collective

For one thing, the pre-loved items that today's savvy shoppers are looking for are often not that old. And the hunt takes place not in cavernous warehouses or auction houses, but online. Today's well-dressed fashion fans score gently used Alaïa dresses on TheRealReal , Bottega Veneta Cassette bags worn once on Vestiaire Collective , vintage Chanel bouclé jackets on Hewi and second-hand Hermès Birkins on Collector Square . They scored sold-out BNWT (“bought new with tags,” the Internet speak) Zara leggings on Depop and second-hand Jean Paul Gaultier Cyber ​​Dots mesh T-shirts on eBay. They go from StockX for Dior Air Jordan like new and from Chrono24 for the Cartier Tanks experienced, taking a short detour to Dotte for Mini Rodini's waste for their children.

Vintage Alaïa long dress

The real real

Vintage Alaïa mini dress

The real real
They sell too. After all, their original Dior Saddle bag from Spring/Summer 2000 is worth a pretty penny since Maria Grazia Chiuri reissued it in 2018, making it too profitable to pass on to a daughter.

Used Trotter Saddle shoulder bag by Christian Dior 2004

Farfetch Second Life

Dior Saddle canvas handbag

Vestiaire Collective
“People's sense of belonging has changed,” says Rachel Reavley, a former employee of Vogue and a board member of Hewi, a family-run UK-based resale site with a particularly affluent clientele. (Hewi is short for Almost Never Worn; more than 30 percent of the inventory on the site has never been worn.) “When you've experienced shopping in a luxury re-commerce space, it really opens up your customers' expectations. Then you start looking at things in your wardrobe, thinking: Will I ever wear those Dior boots again? You go online and as long as you take care of them, they have held their value. It's a win-win: you have the financial reward, the feel-good factor of participating in the circular economy. Then, you could buy something else and you would feel guilt-free.”
via: VOGUE

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